Albanian bunkers
One of Ben's books that I have always enjoyed is a
collection of (several hundred as I recall) Soviet bus stops - that is bus
stops and their shelters. [Ed: Brilliant!! I have just looked the
book up on the InterWeb and there is not only the volume that Ben has
passed on to us, but Volume II, which I must get!!]
Now I am in Albania, and have a different kind of legacy from the
same time (Bunkers in Albania) surprisingly all around
me.
I arrived late last night at Lake Ohrid, having driven from a pre-wedding
party in Greece three days previously. This morning I walked along
the lakeside to Tushemisht (just along from Pogradec). On the return
leg (having managed to find a sort of ordinary shop amongst all the
tourist outlets, and bought milk and fruit) I cranked up Ben's Canon EOS
550D camera, and took some photos:
...this could surely have been built for Brezhnev's
generation in Krimea! The name - HOTEL PROGRADECI 2 - evokes the
hyper-functionalism of Soviet culture
But then I came across a ladybird! A big, concrete ladybird!!
I had seen various concrete lumps on the way down, but thought of them as
something similar to the concrete lumps used for tidal protection in
Cornwall...but, of course, the lake here does not have tides!!
The next one prompted the realisation in my mind that these were not just
'lumps of concrete'...
...these were the very gun emplacements that I had read about, placed by
Enver Hoxha all over the country - and here pointing out across this
inland lake towards the threatening (but non-existent) navy of
Macedonia. And here they were, just come across by accident:
and within 500 m of each other:
I thought: Ben would have loved this!!
And then (I have been writing this on the campsite, and had ordered lunch
- to be taken in a different part of the forest) I went over to the table:
...Oh, just a minute! What's than behind my table...
...could it be a gun emplacement?!!
That Enver Hoxha was such a guy, wasn't he?
¡Que haya luz! Kerenza ha yeghes da! Dad/Grandpa/Andrew x